Christmas markets in Hauts-de-France

The North celebrates Christmas too, and does it well

The Hauts-de-France put paid to a stubborn prejudice: no, Christmas markets are not the preserve of the East and the South. Lille and Amiens fly the flag for a region where conviviality is more than a slogan. People gather here around a filled waffle and a Christmas beer, strangers strike up conversations, and the markets have a human warmth that more than makes up for the December cold.

The region draws on a double heritage. Flemish traditions in the north (beer, speculoos, giants) blend with Picardy traditions in the south (Gothic cathedrals, macarons, hearty farmhouse cooking). The result is a mix unlike any other region.

Lille, Christmas capital of the North

Lille Christmas market sets up on Place Rihour, right in the historic centre, at the foot of the palace of the same name. Around 90 chalets sell local and international crafts, regional produce and gift ideas. The mood is festive and good-natured, driven by the natural energy of the Lillois.

But Lille is not just Place Rihour. The city spreads its lights across the Grand'Place, Place du Théâtre and the streets of Vieux-Lille. The Flemish brick façades, topped with scrolled gables, take on a fairytale look under the garlands. The big wheel, set up on the Grand'Place in some years, gives a view over the city's rooftops.

The filled waffle, a Lille emblem

You cannot talk about Lille without mentioning the gaufre fourrée à la vergeoise, the waffle filled with brown beet sugar. This is no ordinary waffle: two thin, soft wafers enclose a melting filling of vergeoise, butter and vanilla. At Méert, a Lille institution since 1761, the waffles are still made to the original recipe. At the market, artisans keep the tradition alive, sometimes with a twist (speculoos, chocolate).

Craft Christmas beers

The North is brewing country, and the festive season is when the Christmas beers come out. Stronger, spicier and more amber than everyday beers, they are brewed in limited quantities for the season. At the Lille market, several local breweries pour their special cuvées: cinnamon, orange, honey, gingerbread spices. A chalet devoted to regional beers lets you taste before you buy.

Amiens, the cathedral in colour

Amiens Christmas market is inseparable from Notre-Dame cathedral, the largest Gothic cathedral in France by volume. Every evening in December, a light show restores the original colours of the façade as they looked in the Middle Ages. The statues of the portal, grey today, come back to life in blue, red and gold: a striking moment.

The market stretches across Place de l'Hôtel de Ville and Rue des Trois Cailloux. The chalets showcase Picardy producers and local artisans. The atmosphere is calmer than in Lille, and more family-oriented too, and the market's human scale lets you take your time.

Amiens specialities

Amiens macarons have nothing in common with the multicoloured Parisian kind. Round, flat, made from almond paste and honey, they date back to the 17th century. Ficelle picarde (a crêpe filled with mushrooms and baked with cheese), duck pâté en croûte and local chocolates complete the food on offer.

Traditions of the North

Saint Nicholas' Day, on 6 December, is celebrated across the North with a fervour to match Lorraine's. Processions cross the towns, Saint Nicholas hands out sweets and gingerbread, and Père Fouettard waves his birch to scare the children (gently).

The giants of the North (a tradition on UNESCO's intangible heritage list) sometimes make an appearance at the markets. These figures, several metres tall and carried by teams of bearers, parade to the sound of brass bands. Every town has its giants: Gayant in Douai, Lydéric and Phinaert in Lille, and many more.

Carbonade flamande, beef slow-cooked in dark beer with gingerbread, is the ultimate comfort dish for a December evening. Some chalets serve it in individual portions, with chips, as is only right in the North.

Practical tips

Lille is 1 hour from Paris by TGV (Gare du Nord to Lille Flandres or Lille Europe). Amiens is 1h10 by TER from Gare du Nord. The two cities are easy to combine over a weekend.

The markets usually open in the third week of November and close on 30 December. Opening hours are generous: 10am-8pm on weekdays, 10am-9pm at weekends, with late openings on some Fridays and Saturdays.

Budget-wise, prices are gentler than in Paris or Alsace. A mulled wine costs €3 to €4, a filled waffle €2 to €3, and a full meal at the market around €10. City-centre accommodation stays affordable, especially if you book ahead.

One tip for Amiens: plan your visit for the evening so you can catch the light show on the cathedral. The projections start at nightfall (around 5.30pm in December) and repeat every 20 minutes. Grab a mulled wine and find a spot on the square: the show lasts about ten minutes and deserves your full attention.