Christmas markets in Alsace

The historic home of Christmas markets in France

Talk about Christmas markets in France and Alsace comes up first, every time. The region is home to the Strasbourg Christkindelsmärik, founded in 1570: quite simply the oldest Christmas market in the country. But there is far more to Alsace than its capital. From Colmar to Kaysersberg, from Mulhouse to the villages along the Wine Route, more than a hundred markets open their chalets every winter.

History explains this remarkable density. Alsace long shared its traditions with the neighbouring German-speaking regions, where Weihnachtsmärkte had existed since the Middle Ages. The result is a deep-rooted tradition, woven into local culture, that goes well beyond seasonal trade.

What makes Alsace different

The architecture does most of the work. Half-timbered houses, cobbled lanes and wrought-iron shop signs provide a backdrop that the Christmas lights simply enhance. No need for a reconstruction: here, the picturesque is the real thing.

Alsace's other strength is that each market has its own speciality. In Strasbourg, twelve sites cover the whole spectrum, from the historic market to the OFF village given over to independent designers. Colmar runs six themed markets, including one for children with an ice rink and rides. Kaysersberg, once voted France's favourite village, plays the intimate card with a craft market at the foot of its medieval castle.

The golden triangle: Strasbourg, Colmar, Kaysersberg

These three towns form a circuit you can cover in a long weekend. Strasbourg brings the scale (300 chalets, 2 million visitors), Colmar the charm of Little Venice under the fairy lights, and Kaysersberg the calm of a village where artisans work in front of you. Regional TER trains link all three in under an hour.

Mulhouse, the pleasant surprise

Less famous than its neighbours, Mulhouse is worth the detour for its Marché de l'Étoffe, the fabric market, a nod to its industrial textile past. The chalets are dressed in printed fabrics, and local designers sell one-off pieces. The market runs from Place de la Réunion to the Saint-Étienne temple, through a restored historic centre that deserves to be better known.

Specialities to try

Alsace is probably the region where you eat best at the Christmas markets. The list is long, and every speciality tells a piece of local culture.

Bredele are the undisputed stars. These little Christmas biscuits come in dozens of varieties: cinnamon stars (Zimtsterne), almond crescents (Kipfele), butter shortbread (Butterbredele). Every Alsatian family has its own recipes, handed down from mother to daughter, and the baking often starts in mid-November.

Mulled wine made with Gewurztraminer stands apart from the usual mulled wine thanks to its floral, spicy aromas. Cinnamon, cloves, star anise: the recipe changes from one chalet to the next. Gingerbread, mannele (brioche shaped like little men), crisp flammekueche and foie gras round off a spread of food with no equal elsewhere.

On the craft side, Meisenthal baubles (hand-blown glass since 1711) are collectors' items. Soufflenheim pottery, kelsch linen tablecloths and carved wooden decorations make souvenirs that last.

Alsatian Christmas traditions

In Alsace, the central figure is not Father Christmas but the Christkindel, the Christ Child, who brings the presents on 24 December. His dark counterpart, Hans Trapp, threatens children who misbehave. This pairing, typical of Rhineland traditions, turns up in the parades and shows that bring the markets to life.

The Advent wreath takes pride of place in every home from late November. Its four candles are lit one by one, each Sunday. In the villages, Advent sets the rhythm of social life, with concerts in the churches, bredele-baking workshops and evenings around the fire.

Practical tips

Peak season falls on the first three weekends of December. If you want the atmosphere without the crowds, go on a Tuesday or Wednesday evening: the lights are on and the chalets open, but you can still move along the alleys. Book your accommodation at least two months ahead, especially in Strasbourg and Colmar.

For getting there, the Paris to Strasbourg TGV puts the Alsatian capital 1h46 from Paris. TER trains serve Colmar (30 min), Mulhouse (45 min) and the stations along the Wine Route. For Kaysersberg, a bus from Colmar takes 25 minutes.

Budget-wise, entry to the markets is free everywhere. Allow around €4 for a mulled wine, €3 for a portion of bredele, and €8 to €12 for a hot dish (flammekueche, choucroute). Hotels charge higher rates in December: guesthouses in the wine villages offer good value.