Compiègne Christmas Market

In front of the flamboyant façade of the town hall, the wooden chalets line up and the garlands take over as soon as night falls. The Compiègne Christmas market stretches across Place de l'Hôtel de Ville and Place du Change and spills into the pedestrian streets of the historic centre. The imperial town, shaped by Napoleon III's palace and its nearby forest, is easy to explore on foot between two mulled wines. The event has a name that suits it well, “Les Demoiselles de Compiègne”, and it runs for several weeks, from the last weekend of November to the very start of January.

Where to wander: from Place de l'Hôtel de Ville to the pedestrian streets

The heart of the market beats at the foot of the town hall, with its Gothic belfry rising above the square. The chalets start there, then climb towards Place du Change and overflow into the cobbled lanes of the old town. You move from gift ideas to crafts, from decorations to toys, with a good thirty food chalets opening in the early afternoon.

The route stays compact, as the whole old centre fits into a few streets. You'll come across stallholders selling tableware, jewellery, soaps, leather goods and blown-glass baubles, the leatherworker holding out his last belt while the glassblower turns a decoration on the end of his pipe. On Saturdays and Sundays, brass bands, stilt walkers and costumed characters parade through the pedestrian streets, and Father Christmas welcomes children to his chalet every weekend in December. The illuminations come on in the late afternoon and give the town centre a picture-postcard look once night has fallen.

Ice rink, rides and entertainment at Compiègne Christmas market

A real ice rink sets up on Place Saint-Jacques, a few steps from the chalets. Access is free, skates are lent on site and each session lasts half an hour, with gloves compulsory so everyone skates safely. It's where families meet up, between a spin on the carousel and a waffle.

On the entertainment side, the programme mixes fairground rides, horse-drawn carriage rides at weekends, street concerts and magical shows. Children's rides turn a few metres from the chalets, and the brass bands set the rhythm of weekend afternoons. The tourist office, based at the Porte de l'Arsenal, also puts up its own little festive village. Enough to fill a whole afternoon, then carry on into the evening under the lights.

• Ficelle picarde, nicely gratinated and served hot at the food chalet, a regional classic that sets a frozen stomach right.
• Gâteau battu, the airy brioche from the Bay of the Somme, perfect with a hot chocolate or a cider.
• Mint bêtises de Cambrai, from Hauts-de-France, slipped into a pocket for the walk or given as a small gift.
• Spiced mulled wine, the essential companion on cold evenings: a homemade mulled wine recipe soon gets close to the one served at the chalets.
• Free ice rink on Place Saint-Jacques and a visit to Father Christmas, two highlights for children every weekend.

Picardy treats to try on the spot

Picardy isn't only about what's on the plate on Christmas Eve: it's also something you eat standing up, cup in hand. Between chalets, the ficelle picarde is the safe bet: a crêpe rolled around ham, mushrooms and cream, then baked in the oven. Those with a sweet tooth turn to gâteau battu and waffles, while children leave with a bag of bêtises de Cambrai.

To drink, mulled wine rules, but spiced hot cider has its place too, gentler, in a region where apples are never far away. Take the time to compare two or three stalls, as the spice blends vary from one maker to the next. With a deposit cup in hand, you can circle the square at your leisure, glance at the town-centre shop windows dressed up for the occasion, then head back to a savoury chalet when hunger returns.

Access, opening hours and imperial heritage around the market

Compiègne is easy to reach by train from Paris: the journey takes about an hour, and the station is ten minutes' walk from the chalets. By car, take the A1 and the Compiègne exit to reach the centre, with car parks around Place de l'Hôtel de Ville and along the Oise. The market spreads over pedestrian streets, so access is flat and suitable for pushchairs and wheelchairs.

Once you've done the rounds of the chalets, the town deserves a closer look. The Palace of Compiègne, residence of Napoleon I and later Napoleon III, opens its apartments and park a short walk from the centre. The Compiègne forest is home to the Glade of the Armistice, where the end of the First World War was signed, just under ten minutes away by car. Two good ideas to round out the day before or after the market.

To carry on through Hauts-de-France, the Oise and the Somme are full of festive events. The Chantilly Christmas market and its château are worth the trip to the south, while the Beauvais Christmas market and its cathedral are around thirty minutes away. A little further, the Amiens Christmas market, one of the largest in northern France, deserves a day to itself.

The 2026 dates haven't yet been officially confirmed by the town, but the event usually opens at the end of November and runs until early January. Check the exact opening hours and the ice rink dates on the town's website before you set off.