Haguenau Christmas Market

The largest town in the Bas-Rhin after Strasbourg cultivates a Christmas in its own image: calm, sincere, without the dense crowds of the Alsatian capital. Haguenau Christmas market spreads around fifty chalets through the historic heart, between half-timbered houses and the façades of the Cours de la Décapole. Here, you take your time strolling from one square to the next, mulled wine in hand, without elbowing your way through.

Haguenau claims to be the cradle of the nativity scene in Alsace: the first written mention of a crib dates back to 1420, at the church of Saint-Georges. That heritage gives the market a particular colour, far from the interchangeable décor you come across elsewhere. This is northern Alsace at its most true to itself.

Haguenau Christmas market across four squares

The chalets are spread over Place d’Armes, Place de la République, Place Joseph Thierry and the Cours de la Décapole. Weaving through several streets of the centre avoids the crowded-corridor effect: you move from one hub to the next, each square with its own atmosphere. Artisans, traders and charities share the stalls, which makes a change from the all-commercial approach.

Two rides punctuate the walk, including a 1900s carousel with its carved wooden animals, very photogenic after dark. For handmade gifts (jewellery, pottery, kelsch linen, decorations), the Halle des Créateurs sets up for one weekend at the Halle aux Houblons, on the fringes of the main market. A good place to unearth one-off pieces.

Nativity scenes, Haguenau’s true signature

The one event not to miss is the nativity scene exhibition. Every year during Advent, the town presents a selection from the collection of Paul Chaland, former editor-in-chief of Paris Match, rich in cribs from all over the world. Christmas concerts, vintage car parades and family entertainment complete the programme. The Musée Alsacien, with its neo-Renaissance belfry, extends the immersion into Christmases past.

On the food side, you find the region’s classics: bredele in endless variations, gingerbread, warm manala from the morning bake, crisp pretzels and steaming mulled wine. To make your own at home, we keep a mulled wine recipe (in French) to hand.

Getting there and planning your visit

The train is the most relaxed option: the TER regional train links Strasbourg to Haguenau in 20 to 35 minutes depending on the service, and the station comes out a few minutes’ walk from the centre. If you are driving, aim for the Gare car park, the Vieille Île car park or the one at the Halle aux Houblons, which has plenty of spaces. The streets of the historic heart are flat and cobbled, manageable with a pushchair or a wheelchair.

Allow a good half day to do the four squares without rushing, slip in a visit to the makers’ market and take time for the nativity exhibition. Entry is free, and your budget depends on your appetite and your craft finds.

Going further in northern Alsace

Haguenau combines very well with the big events of the Bas-Rhin. Less than 40 minutes away, Strasbourg and its Christkindelsmärik play the large-format card, while Obernai relies on the charm of a medieval town. To complete the circuit of Alsatian classics, Colmar and its canals are worth the detour a little further south. Haguenau, for its part, remains the clever choice for soaking up the atmosphere without the crush.