Riquewihr Christmas Market

The medieval village that has not changed in 500 years

Riquewihr is a life-size postcard. The 16th-century ramparts are intact, Rue du Général de Gaulle (the main street) is pedestrianised, and the pink, yellow and blue half-timbered façades still carry their wrought-iron signs. Step through the upper gate and you drop back four centuries.

The Christmas market sits between the Cour des Bergheim and the main square, with a few more chalets scattered through the side lanes. No central stage, no Ferris wheel, no carousel: here, the village atmosphere comes first.

Open cellars

Riquewihr is first and foremost a wine village. During the market season, a dozen estates open their cellars for tastings of Riesling, Gewurztraminer and Pinot Gris. Several well-known houses (Hugel, Dopff & Irion) are based in the village and welcome visitors in their cellars; check opening times with each estate. Expect €8 to €15 for a guided tasting of 4 to 6 wines.

For food on the market, stick to local producers: Alsatian foie gras, kougelhopf baked in Soufflenheim earthenware moulds, bredele in 200 g bags, Vosges fir honey. Riquewihr's bredele have a reputation for being richer in butter and more fragrant than those at the big markets.

The weekend crowd trap

Riquewihr is a victim of its own success. On Advent Saturdays and Sundays, visitors pour into a village of 1,200 residents. The D1bis road serving the village turns into one long car park, the lanes become saturated, and the bredele sell out within hours. If you want the medieval atmosphere, come on a weekday.

Ideally: a Tuesday or Wednesday between 1 and 16 December. The market is open every day, 10am-6.30pm on weekdays, far less busy, and the guesthouses sometimes have last-minute availability.

Combining it with the neighbouring villages

Riquewihr is 5 km from Ribeauvillé, another fortified village with a market of its own. And 15 km from Colmar and Kaysersberg. The best way to do it: base yourself in Colmar (far more accommodation), hire a car, and loop through 3 or 4 villages in a day. Allow €25 for tolls and fuel for the circuit.