Christmas markets in Île-de-France

Paris and its markets: the capital in Christmas mode

Paris cannot claim Strasbourg's centuries-old tradition, but the capital makes up for it with the sheer number of markets and the beauty of its urban settings. Every winter, a dozen or so markets set up across the arrondissements, from the most central to the most residential. The Tuileries, La Défense, Saint-Germain-des-Prés, Montmartre: you are spoilt for choice.

Paris's big advantage is how easy it is to get around. The métro, the RER and the buses let you visit two or three markets in a single day without ever touching a car. An afternoon at the Tuileries, an evening in Montmartre, a wander through the Marais the next day: the itinerary builds itself as you go.

The markets worth your time

The Tuileries Christmas Market

Set in the Jardin des Tuileries, between the Louvre and Place de la Concorde, this is the largest market in Paris. A hundred or so chalets line the garden's paths, with a big wheel offering a view of the illuminated Eiffel Tower. You will find a bit of everything: crafts, regional French food, wooden toys, Christmas decorations.

The setting is spectacular. The garden's trees are dressed in lights, and the view along the obelisk and the Champs-Élysées gives the scene rare depth. The rides and attractions also make it a good choice for families.

La Défense and the esplanade

The La Défense market puts its chalets on the esplanade, at the foot of the Grande Arche. It is a large-scale affair, with around 350 chalets in some years, which makes it one of the biggest in Île-de-France by number of stallholders. The mix of contemporary architecture and Christmas lights makes for a striking contrast.

The neighbourhood markets

The smaller markets often have more charm. Saint-Germain-des-Prés hosts a little market on the square, with hand-picked artisans and producers. In Montmartre, the chalets set up at the foot of the Sacré-Cœur, and the village feel of the district adds to the warmth. The market on Place des Abbesses, when it takes place, remains one of the most authentic in the capital.

The department store windows

Not a market strictly speaking, but a Parisian tradition that has endured since the 19th century. Every year the Galeries Lafayette and Printemps, on Boulevard Haussmann, unveil animated window displays on a new theme. Automata, miniature sets and lighting effects tell a story behind each pane. The queue can be long at weekends, but the show is free.

The giant tree under the dome of the Galeries Lafayette is another annual fixture. Suspended in mid-air and decorated by an artist or a fashion house, it catches the eye from the moment you walk into the entrance hall.

What to eat at the Paris markets

Paris's Christmas markets are French food in concentrated form. The classics are all there: mulled wine, roast chestnuts, crêpes, raclette melted in front of you. But Paris also draws producers from all over France: foie gras from the South-West, cheeses from the Auvergne, Montélimar nougat, hand-made chocolates from the great houses.

Oysters and champagne make a notable appearance at some markets, especially the Tuileries and Saint-Germain. It is a chance to try a seafood platter in the open air, wrapped up in a coat, glass of white in hand. Not many cities can offer that in December.

The lights, a show in their own right

The Champs-Élysées open the season every year with the official switch-on ceremony in late November. The trees on the world's most famous avenue are dressed in lights, and the display runs until January. The Eiffel Tower, sparkling every evening, completes the picture.

Away from the main avenues, plenty of shopping streets compete in creativity: Rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honoré, Rue Montorgueil, Place Vendôme. The façades of the department stores, the luxury hotels and the boutiques form a trail of light you can follow on foot from the Opéra to the Concorde.

Practical tips

The Paris markets generally open in mid-November and close between 28 December and 7 January depending on the site. The Tuileries stays open latest, sometimes into the first week of January.

To avoid the crowds, aim for weekdays in the early evening (5pm-7pm). December weekends are packed, especially at the Tuileries and on the Champs-Élysées. Wednesday afternoons are quiet at the neighbourhood markets but busy at the Tuileries because of the families.

Budget-wise, Paris prices apply: a mulled wine comes in around €5, a raclette between €8 and €12, and roast chestnuts between €4 and €6 a cone. Entry to the markets is free everywhere.

Getting around: the métro is your best friend. Tuileries (line 1) for the garden, Grande Arche (line 1) for La Défense, Saint-Germain-des-Prés (line 4) for the Left Bank, Anvers (line 2) or Abbesses (line 12) for Montmartre.