Marseille Christmas Market

1803: the oldest santon fair in France

Marseille did not wait for the Christmas market fashion imported from Alsace in the 1990s. Since 1803, Provençal santon makers have set up their stalls for the festive season, on the Vieux-Port since 2018. The 2026 edition brings together 21 santon makers on the Quai du Port, from 14 November 2026 to 3 January 2027. It is the oldest seasonal fair devoted to santons (the painted clay nativity figures of Provence) in France, and probably in Europe.

Around twenty santon makers show their hand-painted clay figurines. Pieces range from the classic 5 cm santon (from €8) to complete nativity scenes signed by master santon makers (Carbonel, Escoffier, Devouassoux), which can reach several thousand euros for the most elaborate pieces. The fair is also a meeting place for makers and collectors: the talk is of technique, glazes and traditional costumes.

The Vieux-Port market

More recent, the Vieux-Port Christmas market has been set up on the quays since the early 2000s. Its 2026 dates have not yet been published: the dates on this page are those of the santon fair. Sixty wooden chalets, street food, a synthetic ice rink (no ice, more eco-friendly) and a 25-metre Ferris wheel with views over the harbour and Notre-Dame de la Garde.

In the morning, the fishermen still sell their catch on the Quai des Belges, right next to the market. A blend you will find nowhere else, between everyday maritime tradition and Christmas festivities. A morning sardinade (sardines grilled over charcoal) is served on some weekends.

Provençal winter flavours

The 13 desserts are the centrepiece of the Provençal Christmas tradition, symbolising Christ and the 12 apostles. Pompe à l'huile (a bread made with olive oil and orange-blossom water), the 4 mendiants (walnuts, almonds, dried figs, raisins), white and black nougat, dates, fruit jellies, calissons. Several stalls sell ready-to-give assortments, from €25.

Navettes, dry boat-shaped biscuits flavoured with orange blossom, have been made by Le Four des Navettes (Rue Sainte) since 1781. It is the original bakery, and its stall is the one everyone heads for. Calissons from Aix are also on sale, sometimes cheaper than in Aix itself.

Notre-Dame de la Garde, lit up

The basilica of Notre-Dame de la Garde, perched 154 metres up on the hill overlooking the city, is illuminated every evening over the holidays. Seen from the Vieux-Port, it is the market's visual landmark. To see it up close, take bus 60 (from the Vieux-Port) or walk for 30 minutes (a steep climb). Panoramic views over the city and the sea.

Extending your visit

Marseille is the ideal base for visiting several Provençal markets. Aix-en-Provence (Cours Mirabeau, santon fair) is 30 minutes away by TER regional train. Arles (medieval market, illuminated Roman remains) 45 minutes. Avignon (Palais des Papes and the market at Les Halles) 35 minutes by TGV. A weekend of Marseille + one of these markets covers the variety of Provence.