Aix-en-Provence Christmas Market

A Provençal Christmas, a world of its own

Forget the standard Christmas market image: in Aix-en-Provence there are no dark wooden chalets and no raclette in a cone. Santon makers display their hand-painted clay figures, confectioners sell calissons fresh from the workshop, and the mulled wine is made with a light Provence rosé instead of Côtes-du-Rhône. A different tradition, far older than the market itself: the santons of Provence were born in Marseille at the end of the 18th century, and the Provençal Christmas meal, attested from the 17th century, only fixed its thirteen desserts in 1925.

The setting: Cours Mirabeau. This 440-metre avenue lined with century-old plane trees and fountains, ranked among the most beautiful in France, hosts most of the chalets. The 17th-century mansions serve as a backdrop, lit in gold every evening.

The santon fair

Aix-en-Provence is one of France's three santon capitals (with Marseille and Aubagne). The Foire aux santons, an Aix fixture since 1934, is a separate event from the market: it is held on the Esplanade Cezanne (in 2025, from 14 November to 31 December, daily 10am-7pm; 2026 dates to come). Pieces range from the classic painted clay santon (from €8 for a 5 cm figure) to complete nativity scenes signed by master craftsmen (up to €800 for a 30-figure scene).

For enthusiasts, it is a chance to meet the Aix santon makers who exhibited there in 2025 (Fouque, Jouve, Mayans, Richard, among others) and see their creations for the year. Each season's new pieces are often limited editions and go quickly.

The thirteen desserts, a rare experience

The tradition of the thirteen desserts symbolises Christ and the twelve apostles. It brings together pompe à l'huile (olive oil brioche), fougasse, dried fruit and nuts (the four “beggars”: walnuts, almonds, dried figs, raisins), white and black nougat, dates, fruit jellies and other sweets depending on the area. The Marché des 13 desserts et des produits du terroir, run by the Bouches-du-Rhône Chamber of Agriculture on Place François Villon (in 2025, from 13 to 24 December), sells the elements separately or as a gift-ready set (expect €35 to €50 for a full assortment).

It is one of the few chances to sample each element in tasting portions. Several stalls offer €5 tasters so you can try before you buy.

Combining it with the coast

Aix is 30 minutes by TER train from Marseille (the Vieux-Port market), 45 minutes from Arles (medieval market) and an hour from Avignon (Les Halles market). Two markets in one day is entirely doable. For wine lovers, the Côtes de Provence estates (Sainte-Victoire, Beaurecueil) open their cellars year-round.