Hyères Christmas Market

Palm trees rustling above the chalets, a Var sky still mild in mid-December: the Hyères Christmas market has a slightly offbeat charm that surprises visitors from the north. On Place Georges-Clemenceau, around forty wooden chalets huddle under the garlands while, a few streets away, the medieval old town climbs towards the Collégiale Saint-Paul and the castle ruins. The town is known as Hyères-les-Palmiers, and you soon see why: it’s the southernmost town in the region, looking out to the Giens peninsula and the Golden Isles. Here, you do your Christmas shopping in a light coat, a steaming cup in hand, in a light that has nothing alpine about it.

On Place Clemenceau, between chalets and ice rink

The heart of the Hyères Christmas market beats on Place Clemenceau, redesigned in 2019 and since then the rallying point of the festive season. The stalls offer art objects, gift ideas and treats, in the “arts of Christmas” spirit the town champions: fine crafts, local food, creative workshops. The format puts makers from the Var in the spotlight, so you’ll come across Marseille soap and pottery as often as jewellery or household linen. An ice rink takes over the square for the duration of the event (allow about €3 for half an hour), with fun obstacle courses on some Saturdays in December and an ice show planned on the evening of the 31st. Plenty to keep the children busy between two carousel rides.

Santa’s chalet completes the picture, and the evenings warm up to the sound of apéro-concerts: Latin covers, pop, funk, soul, a music programme that runs throughout the season, often with around fifteen different bands. A few minutes’ walk away, Place Massillon extends the stroll with its Provençal nativity scene full of santons, its Guignol puppet theatre and the light-up cars that delight younger children. On Place de la République, rides, little motorbikes and wooden games round off a family afternoon. It all fits into a compact area: you go from the ice rink to the nativity scene in five minutes, pushchair included.

The season isn’t just about the chalets. At the previous edition, the launch of “Hyères en Fêtes” and the switching-on of the lights kicked things off in late November, followed by one-off events over the weeks that followed: Santa’s arrival and the little train parade just before Christmas, a costume parade in late December, and fireworks in early January to close the festivities. All good reasons to come back several times rather than see everything in one visit.

The format reflects a choice by the town: rather than one big market, Hyères spreads its activities over three or four squares in the centre, linked by pedestrian streets. You move from one to the next without ever feeling jostled, even on busy Saturdays. This spread suits families, who can alternate adult shopping and children’s rides without crossing half the town. Shops in the centre stay open at the same time, and many join in with decorated windows and small seasonal offers, which extends the stroll beyond the chalets.

Provençal specialities to taste at the Hyères Christmas market

Here, the Christmas table speaks Provençal. The thirteen desserts take centre stage, a Var tradition that brings together dried fruit, white and black nougat, candied fruit, dates and the famous pompe à huile, an olive oil bread you break by hand. The ritual goes back to the gros souper, the meatless Christmas Eve meal that ends with these thirteen treats, a number that stands for Christ and the twelve apostles. At the food stalls, you’ll find orange-blossom navettes, calissons from Aix, local olive oil and Côtes de Provence wines to go with it all. Local food has a real place in the programme, which makes a change from markets where factory-made sweets fill every window.

• The thirteen Provençal desserts, served at the end of the meal on Christmas night, each with its own symbolism.
• Orange-blossom navettes and calissons, for a sweet break between chalets.
• Socca and panisse, made from chickpea flour, street snacks from Nice and Marseille to nibble on the go.
• Olive oil, tapenade and anchoïade, good souvenirs to tuck into your suitcase.
• Spiced mulled wine, served piping hot from dusk; we’ve put together a homemade mulled wine recipe if you feel like making it again at home.

Many producers come from the Var hinterland and are happy to talk about their work, from the olive mill to the beehive. It’s often the best way to leave with a gift that means something rather than a standard object.

The mulled wine deserves a closer look. In Hyères, it comes with an extra dose of sunshine: the Var version relies on orange and gentle spices, sometimes lifted with a local zest, since the area grows its own citrus fruit. Nothing like the thick grog of alpine markets. Cup in hand, you head up towards the old town at the end of the day, when the façades light up and the air still holds a little of the day’s warmth. That contrast is what makes the event so charming: all the codes of Christmas, transposed to a Mediterranean climate.

Hours, getting there and 2026 dates

At the previous edition, the market was open every day from 11am to 9pm, extended until 10pm on Fridays and Saturdays, with a 10.30am opening on Saturdays. The dates of the December 2026 edition are still to be confirmed by the town: the event runs from late November to the very start of January, but it’s best to check the official calendar on the town hall website before planning your weekend. The ice rink and Santa’s chalet generally follow the same calendar as the chalets, with a few highlights of their own (ice show, children’s workshops) announced as the holidays approach.

To get there, Hyères station has trains from Toulon and Marseille and is about ten minutes by bus or taxi from the centre. By car, take the A57 and the Hyères exit to reach the town-centre car parks, as Place Clemenceau is pedestrianised during the event. Aim for early afternoon or late in the day to find a space without circling, as December Saturdays are the busiest. Entry to the market is free; only attractions such as the ice rink charge. The centre is flat and spacious around the square, which makes a visit with a pushchair or wheelchair easy. If you’re exploring the coast, the Toulon Christmas market is less than twenty kilometres away, and the Fréjus Christmas market lies further east along the coast.

The old town and the islands nearby

Hyères is more than its chalets. The medieval old town is best explored on foot, from the Porte Massillon through cobbled lanes climbing to the Collégiale Saint-Paul and its ex-votos, up to the remains of the castle of the lords of Fos on the heights. This 11th-century fortress, now in ruins, overlooks the bay and the Maures massif: the climb takes some effort, but the view over the harbour and the Golden Isles makes it worthwhile. Allow an hour and a half to explore old Hyères at an easy pace, between little squares, fountains and old façades.

Architecture lovers set aside time for the Villa Noailles, built between 1923 and 1925 for Viscount Charles and Marie-Laure de Noailles. This manifesto of the Modern movement now hosts fashion, design and photography exhibitions, a few steps from the Parc Saint-Bernard and its terraced gardens. The Giens peninsula and its pier for Porquerolles are a quarter of an hour away: a trip to the island away from the festivities, with its beaches deserted in winter and its military forts, makes a welcome contrast after tarmac and garlands. To head further west, the Marseille Christmas market and its big santon fair extend your tour of Provence.

One last tip if you’re coming from far away: Hyères is better suited to a weekend than a single day. The market takes up a late afternoon and an evening, the old town a morning, which leaves time for a breath of fresh air on the peninsula or a crossing to Porquerolles. Accommodation in the centre and around is cheaper in December than at the height of summer, and the town, free of its summer crowds, is far more peaceful. You leave with a bag full of local produce and the rare feeling of having spent Christmas in the sun.