Rouen Christmas Market

In front of the three-spired cathedral

Rouen has an asset few cities can match: its Notre-Dame cathedral, painted thirty times by Monet between 1892 and 1894, whose 151-metre cast-iron spire is the tallest in Europe. The Christmas market sets up right in front of it, on the cobbled square. Eighty dark wooden chalets stand out against the illuminated Gothic facade. It is probably one of the finest natural backdrops in France for a Christmas market.

The layout is compact: everything fits on the square and spills slightly onto the pedestrianised Rue du Gros-Horloge. Allow 1 hour to go round, more depending on how often you stop.

The cathedral light show, free of charge

Rouen's signature event is the sound and light show projected onto the Gothic facade. Fifteen minutes of video mapping retracing the cathedral's history, with sections devoted to Monet's paintings. Three showings a night in December, at 6pm, 7pm and 8pm. Free, no booking needed.

The effect is striking: the colours play with the volumes of the Gothic sculptures, and the sound fills the whole square. Arrive 15 minutes early to get a good spot, ideally facing the central rose window. On rainy evenings the show usually goes ahead unless the wind is strong.

Norman specialities to try

Normandy brings out its dairy and seafood produce. Raw-milk AOP camembert (the real thing, not the factory version) is sold by several cheesemongers. Neufchâtel, rarer and heart-shaped, is worth trying too. Livarot and pont-l'évêque complete the selection.

For drinks, hot spiced cider is served as an alternative to mulled wine. Sweeter, less alcoholic, scented with cloves and cinnamon. Calvados and pommeau (apple juice and calvados) are sold by Pays d'Auge producers who come at weekends. To take home: teurgoule (Norman rice pudding slow-baked in the oven), sablés bénédictins biscuits and apple tart in a jar.

The pedestrian quarter around the market

Rouen's advantage: the historic centre is entirely pedestrianised, from the Seine quays to the cathedral, by way of Rue du Gros-Horloge and Place du Vieux-Marché (where Joan of Arc was burned in 1431). An open-air ice rink is set up on this square during the season.

Norman half-timbering is everywhere: Rue Eau-de-Robec, the Aître Saint-Maclou (a medieval cemetery unlike any other in Europe) and Rue Saint-Romain offer photogenic settings to stretch your walk. The wrought-iron shop signs of the Gros-Horloge, under the arch of the 14th-century belfry, are worth a look.

Planning your visit

Rouen from Paris Saint-Lazare: 1h25 by Intercités train, several trains a day. It is one of the most accessible Christmas market destinations for a day return. To go further, Honfleur (the Vieux Bassin and a market set up on the harbour) is 40 minutes away by car. Caen, 1h30. The Norman climate is damp and chilly in December, so pack waterproof clothing.