Christmas markets in Grand Est

Lorraine and Champagne: two terroirs, one passion for Christmas

There is more to the Grand Est than Alsace. Lorraine and Champagne have Christmas traditions of their own, carried by cities with remarkable architecture. Metz and its Gothic cathedral, Reims and its champagne cellars, Montbéliard and its Lumières just across the regional boundary: each brings its own personality to the season.

Here, Saint Nicholas' Day (6 December) matters as much as Christmas itself, if not more. In Lorraine the feast brings float parades, sweets thrown to the crowd and street shows that take over the city centres for the whole of the first weekend in December.

Metz, the cathedral in lights

Metz Christmas market sets up on Place Saint-Louis and Place de la République, at the foot of Saint-Étienne cathedral. Nicknamed “God's Lantern” for its 6,500 m² of stained glass, the cathedral takes on another dimension under the Christmas lights. The projections on its façade are among the highlights of the season.

The Metz market is known for its Christmas pyramid, a rotating wooden structure inspired by the Christmas pyramids of the Erzgebirge, in Saxony. The chalets sell a mix of Lorraine produce (mirabelle plums, Boulay macarons, Nancy bergamot sweets) and crafts from all over Europe. The big wheel on Place de la République gives a panoramic view over the city.

Saint Nicholas in Metz

On the first weekend in December, Metz celebrates Saint Nicholas with a parade through the city centre. Lorraine's patron saint, accompanied by Père Fouettard (his punishing sidekick), hands out sweets to the children. Illuminated floats, brass bands and fireworks draw tens of thousands of spectators.

Reims, Christmas in champagne country

Reims pairs its Christmas market with what made it famous worldwide: champagne. The chalets on Place Drouet-d'Erlon and in front of the cathedral offer tastings of local cuvées, pink Reims biscuits (made for dunking in a flute) and produce from the Champagne region.

Notre-Dame de Reims cathedral, where the kings of France were crowned, hosts a light show projected onto its façade throughout Advent. The “Reims en fête” trail links the various illuminated sites across the city, from the Boulingrin covered market to the historic quarter.

What to eat in Reims

The pink Reims biscuit, crisp on the outside and soft in the middle, is eaten on its own or dipped in champagne. Champagne-style rillettes, Rethel white pudding, chocolates from Maison Fossier and sweets flavoured with marc de champagne complete a spread firmly rooted in the local terroir.

Montbéliard, the Lumières de Noël

Montbéliard's market, outside the Grand Est (in Bourgogne-Franche-Comté) but on the doorstep of Alsace, is a case apart on the French scene. Les Lumières de Noël, the event's official name, turn the whole town into a stage of light. More than 600,000 visitors come each year for the installations, the street shows and the market's 160 chalets.

The town owes its identity to its Württemberg heritage (it belonged to the Duchy of Württemberg until 1793). That German influence shows in the Christmas traditions, the recipes and the colourful architecture of the historic centre. The market runs from Place Denfert-Rochereau to the Saint-Martin temple, along the illuminated pedestrian streets.

Montbéliard sausage, queen of the market

Smoked over softwood in a tuyé (the tall traditional chimney of the Franche-Comté farmhouse), Montbéliard sausage is the market's signature food. Grilled on the spot and served with warm cancoillotte cheese and potatoes, it alone justifies the trip. Cheesemakers sell comté at different stages of maturing, and the bakers offer Christmas cakes made with walnuts and honey.

Regional specialities to remember

The Grand Est's strength is its gastronomic variety. Each sub-region has its star products:

• Lorraine: mirabelle plums (in tarts, eau-de-vie and jam), Boulay and Nancy macarons, Commercy madeleines, Nancy bergamot sweets, quiche lorraine
• Champagne: champagne (naturally), pink biscuits, Champagne-style rillettes, Rethel white pudding, croquignoles
• Franche-Comté: Montbéliard sausage, comté, cancoillotte, Jura wine (hot macvin), gâteau de ménage

Practical tips

The TGV serves Metz (1h25 from Paris) and Reims (45 min from Paris Gare de l'Est). Montbéliard is reached via Belfort-Montbéliard TGV (2h15 from Paris), then a 15-minute shuttle.

The Metz and Reims markets usually open on the third weekend of November and close on 29 or 30 December. Montbéliard concentrates its Lumières de Noël on four weekends from late November to late December. Check the exact dates on the official websites, as they change every year.

Food budget at a market: allow €10 to €15 for a full meal (hot dish, drink and dessert). Accommodation is cheaper than in Alsace, with good options among guesthouses and city-centre hotels.