Clermont-Ferrand Christmas Market

There are few cities where you do your Christmas shopping with the silhouette of a dormant volcano at the end of the street. Clermont-Ferrand Christmas market takes over Place de Jaude, the vast esplanade at the foot of the statue of Vercingetorix, a few steps from the cathedral built in Volvic stone, whose deep black towers stand out against the fairy lights. That contrast sets the tone: something hushed and mineral, warmed by the glow of the chalets.

Every year, the square fills with 73 chalets run by artisans, designers and producers from the region. You stroll around with a hot chocolate in hand, gazing up at the monumental tree from Murat-le-Quaire, which rises 28 metres above the rooftops. After a while, you understand why close to half a million people flock here over the course of a month.

Clermont-Ferrand Christmas market, at the foot of the volcanoes

Place de Jaude has the advantage of being flat, wide and central. You move from one chalet to the next without ever feeling hemmed in, even on Friday evenings when the crowds swell. The Ferris wheel at the edge of the square reaches 50 metres: from the gondola, on a clear day, you take in the whole Chaîne des Puys, with the Puy de Dôme in your sights. Few French Christmas markets can offer a view like that.

Notre-Dame-de-l’Assomption cathedral, two minutes’ walk away, is worth a detour after dark. Its volcanic stone, almost charcoal in colour, catches the lighting in a singular way. Carry on to the Fontaine d’Amboise and the narrow streets of old Clermont to extend the walk away from the crowds.

Auvergne specialities to try

Here, good food has an accent. The food chalets bank on local produce rather than the standard fare you find everywhere. You come across truffade (potatoes fried with fresh Cantal cheese) sizzling away, stringy aligot, and the region’s great PDO cheeses cut to order.

• Saint-Nectaire and Cantal: the two pillars of local cheesemaking, to take home on a board or melted into a piping-hot truffade.
• Mountain charcuterie: matured Auvergne ham and dry-cured saucisson, to nibble as you walk.
• Auvergne fruit jellies and gingerbread, two sweets that travel well in a bag of presents.
• Mulled wine and hot chocolate, to keep going when night falls early. If you want to make it at home, this home-made mulled wine recipe (in French) takes twenty minutes.

Entertainment, Ferris wheel and an ice rink on the summit

The programme revolves around families. Father Christmas holds his photo spot at the foot of the tree, concerts, brass bands and choirs set the pace at weekends, and craft workshops keep children busy while parents finish their shopping. The Ferris wheel remains the star attraction of the square.

One detail that surprises visitors: Clermont’s ice rink is not in town but on the summit of the Puy de Dôme, at 1,465 metres, reached by the Panoramique des Dômes rack railway. Skating in front of a panorama of volcanoes is an experience that justifies the climb. Check its opening dates before going up, as they are shorter than the market’s.

Getting there and planning your visit

Place de Jaude is served by tram line A, Jaude stop, which remains the simplest option. If you are driving, aim for the Cathédrale, Saint-Pierre or Vercingétorix car parks, all of them charged and a few minutes’ walk away. Allow two to three hours to go round at a leisurely pace, between the chalets, a turn on the wheel and a food break. Entry is free, and you only pay for what you consume.

To extend your tour of the region’s markets, take a look at Lyon Christmas market and the one in Grenoble, both under two hours’ drive away.