Perpignan Christmas Market

Perpignan Christmas market plays out at the foot of the Castillet, the red-brick gateway that has guarded the entrance to the old town since the 14th century. Winter here has a Catalan accent. The lights lean towards blood red and gold, the colours of the flag, and the chalets on Quai Vauban smell of aniseed and hot sugar. The Spanish border is only a few kilometres away, and you can tell in the traditions as much as in the treats.

The setting: the Castillet, the Ferris wheel and Quai Vauban

The heart of the festivities sits on Quai Sébastien Vauban, along the Basse river, with an extension towards Place Gabriel Péri. The wooden chalets line up along the water, and the Ferris wheel planted at the foot of the Castillet towers over it all. Once at the top, you take in the roofs of the old town, the lit-up monument and the thread of garlands running through the streets in a single glance.

The Castillet is Perpignan’s landmark: a former fortress turned prison, today a museum of Catalan folk arts and traditions. It sets the red and gold tone you find everywhere once night falls. Alongside the main market, a food market takes up residence on Allées Maillol, and the rides for little ones are spread across several squares in the centre, from Place de Catalogne to Place Arago.

Catalan traditions: pessebre, tió and rousquilles

This is what makes the mood in Perpignan different. The town sets up a pessebre, the Catalan nativity scene, at the Hôtel de Ville. You will spot the famous caganer, the prankster figurine tucked away in a corner of the scene, and sometimes living nativity scenes come to life in the streets. Another custom that delights children: the tió de Nadal, the little log with a painted face that you feed before Christmas and then beat to make it drop sweets.

On the sweet side, the rousquille reigns: a melt-in-the-mouth ring-shaped biscuit, glazed with lemon and aniseed meringue, eaten by the handful. You will also find touron (nougat), almond croquant, bunyetes (those flat, crispy fritters) and, for the grown-ups, a glass of Muscat de Rivesaltes, grown a few minutes from here. Mulled wine has its place on the stalls too, of course; if you want to make it at home, we keep a mulled wine recipe that does the job.

Getting there and planning your visit

Perpignan is easy to reach without a car. The station, served by TGV and regional trains, is a quarter of an hour’s walk from the Castillet, or a few minutes by bus. The Sankéo network serves the centre, and several covered car parks surround the old town if you come by car. Access to the market is free and open, and the paths are fine for wheelchairs and pushchairs.

Allow half a day to wander along the quay, go up the Ferris wheel, take a turn on the ice rink when it is set up and fill a bag with rousquilles. The best moment is still nightfall, when the red and gold lights come on against the brick of the Castillet. To carry the journey north, the Montpellier Christmas market and the one in Toulouse keep the southern spirit going, each with its own personality.