Annecy Christmas Market

The Venice of the Alps in winter dress

Annecy in winter is one of the prettiest postcards France has to offer. The Thiou canal mirrors the illuminated half-timbered façades, the arcades of Rue Sainte-Claire shelter the chalets, and the château on its hill looks down over the old town. When the lights come on around 5pm, the mood shifts.

The market is arranged around four hubs: the old town (food and crafts), Quai de l'Évêché (makers and producers), the Pâquier (ice rink, carousel, Ferris wheel) and the lakeshore (lights and photo spots). Around a hundred chalets, spread out to avoid the crush you get in Strasbourg or Colmar.

The Savoyard experience

Here, the food is Savoyard and makes no apologies for it. Reblochon matured in the cellars of Thônes, Beaufort from the summer mountain pastures, Tomme de Savoie, diots sausages cooked in white wine, raclette scraped straight into a cone. The producers are on the stalls and happy to answer questions about ageing and AOP labels. For local liqueurs, génépi and Chartreuse make gifts that travel well.

Annecy's mulled wine is a little different: often based on Mondeuse or Savoyard Gamay, sometimes with a dash of génépi added at the end. Expect to pay €4 to €5 a glass.

What else to do

The walk around the lake is worth doing, even in winter. Hire an e-bike at the station or walk to the Champ de Mars (45 minutes there and back). If the weather is kind, climb up to the château for the panoramic view over the old town and the lake. The Basilica of the Visitation, reachable by shuttle, gives a similar view with fewer people.

If you ski, the resorts of the Aravis massif (La Clusaz, Le Grand-Bornand) are a 30-minute drive away. A day on the slopes followed by an evening at the market remains one of the most popular combinations with visitors.

When to come

Annecy empties out on weekdays between mid-November and 7 December, ideal for a relaxed visit. Advent weekends mainly draw people from Lyon and Geneva (Switzerland is 30 minutes away), so Fridays and Saturdays fill up. The December school holidays are the peak. Avoid the last week before Christmas, when the town is saturated.